Making a Toile

In today lecture in Introductory Cut and Construction we learnt about toiles. A Toile or a Muslin is a garment test made of cheap fabric. A toile is like a test to make sure that the pattern you are using works. This prevents you from wasting your expensive fabric if you get the pattern wrong.
The toile is then tried on the actor or the person you are making it for so that it can be altered. People have different body shapes so it may need to be adjusted to accommodate a deeper back curve or broader shoulders. A Toile is useful when making a close fitting garment and also when making a garment with darts that need to be in a certain position.
Traditionally, calico is used. This is unbleached cotton. Bed sheets, spare fabric can also be used.

Tips

-When making a toile it is easier to use lighter fabrics so that the markings made during fittings are more visible.
-Using similar weight calico to your final fabric will give you an idea of the drape.
-When adding a sleeve to a toile only one needs to be added unless a tailored garment is being made.
-Use contrasting coloured thread and long stitches on the toile will make the toile easier to take apart.
-Button holes, zips and neckline facing doesn't need to be added to the neckline.
-When fitting the toile make sure that the fabric is hanging nicely and that the garments not pulling or too tight. Get the person you're fitting to move around to make sure that it is not restricting their movements.
-Mark the stitching and cutting lines and mark where the pins have been put in case they fall out when taking off the toile.
-If there are too many changes make another toile.
-The toile can be used to work out how much fabric is needed.