Pattern Construction

In workshops I have been learning different ways to create a pattern:

-Pattern drafting a block

-Pattern drafting onto pattern paper from a grid

-Draping on a stand

Drafting a Block

A block can be constructed to fit an individual figure or to fit an average measurement that has been taken from a sizing survey. The basic patterns made by this can then be altered in various different ways in order to create different styles.

Drafting from a Grid

Drafting a pattern from a grid is usually found when creating historical patterns. These are drafted up in one size, then sized up after.

Draping on a Stand

Draping on a stand is used to create unique, elaborate designs. This method is useful for creating bodice patterns. This is done by pinning calico to a dummy that has the same measurements of the person you are making the garment for. The pieces are then laid onto pattern paper and drawn around.

Tips

-Make sure your lines and curves are smooth. This is very important because if they are not the garment will have unwanted bums.

-Use a pattern master, French curves and a flexible ruler, these will help you create smooth lines.

-Remember you shouldn't but seam allowances on your patterns. The seam allowance should be added on to the fabric, this is because seam allowance change depending on fabric, garment and production type. Theatre productions will have large seam allowances because they will be worn multiple different times and the large seam allowance allows the garment to be made bigger if needed.

-Label your pattern pieces with the name, number of cut, construction lines, fold marks, grain line, pattern size, name of the costume, actor and production.

-Cut pieces in the direction of the warp to create a stronger garment

-Cut pieces in the weft direction to create a garment with more give

-Cut pieces on a cross grain (on an angle) for better stretch and drape.

-Line garments with lining or calico for a more durable costume.

Seam sizes 

-Basic seams- 1.5cm

-Enclosed seams (collars and cuffs)-0.5cm

-Hem allowances- 1 to 5cm. These vary depending on the fabric type, the shape or the type of hem finish you've chosen to use.

-Costume seams- 3cm

-Fraying fabric requires large seams.