Needles and Threads Guide

In today's Professional Studies lecture we learnt about Needles and Threads.

Sewing Needles

The fabric that is being used effects what needle is used since the needle needs to be suitable for the fabrics properties such as their strength. Large needles should not be used on delicate fabrics since they will leave a hole and damage the fabric.

Sharps are the most common needles and can be used for general use. With needles the bigger there numbers the finer they are. Needles numbered 2, 3 and 4 are usually used on heavy to medium fabrics. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 can be used on light to medium fabrics, 11 and 12 can be used on thin fabrics. 16, 17 and 18 size needles are stronger and heavier and can be used on thick materials such as carpets.

Tapestry needles are also known as cross stitching needles and they are recognised by their large eye. So that the fabric is not damage when sewing the needle is blunt. The larger number needles have small eyes.

Needles used when quilting are short so that it is easier and faster to sew the fabric. The shorter the needle in length the larger the number. These needles range between 1 to 12.

Milliner’s needles are malleable and curve at the bottom so they can be used for stitching decorative features.

Beading needles look like sharps in appearance but they are a lot thinner and longer like wire, though they can be found in different thicknesses and lengths.

Leather needles can used on fabrics such as plastic, leather and suede. These needle cut the fabric instead of pushing through it which can cause the fabric damage. They have a chipped end so that it cuts the fabric.

Darners needle usually have larger eyes which are longer. The needle is also sharper and its common used for repairing garments.

Needles for yarn and wool would be found in the sizes between 14 to 18.

Embroidery needles are used for embroidery so they have eyes which are longer so that the thread can be passed through the needle easily. These needles look like sharps needles.

Curve needles are needles which are curved, they are commonly used on upholstery and are used in order to sew corners with ease.

Bodkin are not needles but they can be used for threading elastic and cording. They are commonly blunt.

Machine Needles

Machine needles are different than hand sewing needles since the bigger the number the bigger the needle whereas sewing needles are the opposite. The sizes found look like 70/10 this is both the sizes in Europe and in America. They are a variety of different machine needles the most common are jersey, universal, denim, ballpoint and sharps. Both the ball point and jersey needle can be used on jersey fabric since it will not damage it. If a needle is too blunt it can lead to the fabric getting stuck in the bobbin case. This can also happen if the needle is too thick. Needles will also break easily if it is not supposed to be used on the fabric. It is thought that after sewing for 8 or 10 hours the needle on a sewing machine will need to be replaced with a new one since if it becomes too blunt it will damage the fabric. The needle also needs to be changed if a pin has been hit since if the needle has been damaged it can damage the fabric. 9/70 is usually used on light weight fabric like silk and taffeta. 11/80 can be used on medium weight fabrics such as satin, linen and cotton. 16/100 can be used on heavy weight fabrics such as curtains.

Thread

When choosing a thread one slightly weaker and lighter than the fabric needs to be used since if too much pressure is applied to the seams the thread with break instead of the fabric. The fabric type can be sewn with the same thread type such as cotton fabric and cotton thread, though all-purpose polyester thread works for most fabrics. It is better to use good quality threads since the lower quality threads are not as smooth. When sewing on fabric with a variety of different colour is usually best to choose a thread in the colour that is seen the most on the pattern. On threads the higher the number is the thinner the thread will be. 60 is commonly used on thin fabrics, 50 on medium weight fabrics and 20 on heavy weight fabrics. Threads are commonly processed so that they are smoother and absorbed water this is called Mercerised Thread.

Polyester thread can be used on a range of fabrics and is usually a 50. The thread is more durable and it can be used on both sewing machines and when hands sewing.  This thread stretches therefore it can be used on stretchy fabrics. This thread is smooth and has a wax like outer layer so that less friction is created when sewing the fabric. The thread also slides and has a shiny surface though it cannot with stand high temperatures.

Cotton thread can be used on quilting and withstands higher temperatures, this thread does not stretch and can break easily. This thread is smooth and works best on fabric which does not stretch.

Threads that can be used for a range of purposes are usually half cotton and half polyester this can be used on a variety of fabrics and can be used on a sewing machine and when sewing by hand. Due to the use of polyester the thread stretches a little bit.

Silk thread is best used on silk, knit, jersey and delicate fabrics as well as for basting, hemming and button holes. Due to the thread being very thin the holes created are smaller. The used of heat can also cause the silk to change its shaping. The stitches are less noticeable and sit deep in the fabric.

Cone thread it the thread that is used for overlocking and it is cheaper and weaker so it snaps easily when used in sewing machines and knots. Polyester and cotton is usually used for thread.  

Invisible threads can be found as see through or cloudy and it is made using either polyester or nylon. Polyester is commonly the best since it is more durable and does not change colour like nylon over time. This thread is useful for binding made from different colours, lacing, applique, trimming and when stitching in the ditch. When sewing with a machine with this thread a net is sometimes placed over the thread since it can unravel easily. Heat cannot be used on this thread.

Metallic threads are polyester and cotton threads which are covered with aluminium. Due to their appearance this thread is commonly used as decorative stitches. The needles used when sewing this have a big eye so that there is less friction and the thread will not break.

Buttonhole thread is thick and can only be used when hands sewing though thread for machines can be found.