Fashion Museum

On the college trip in Bath we were able to visit the Fashion Museum and have a study session where we were able to handle costumes and look at them more closely exploring the decoration and the way they were construction. It was really enjoyable being able to actually handle (with gloves) original historical garments and to explore what is inside of them and techniques were used. Most of the costume we looked at were 1800s onwards so there was a mixture of hand stitching and machine stitching. I was also able to visit the museum's exhibit which has a range of historical and modern costumes on display.

Courtesy of the Fashion Museum, Bath & North East Somerset Council BATMC I.27.8 A

This is a corset from 1880 to 1890, it has been made with cotton and silk and lace has been applied along the top edge as well as ribbon. Decorative stitches keeping the boning in place can also be seen at the top and bottom of the corset. The boning used is made from whalebone.

Courtesy of the Fashion Museum Bath & North East Somerset Council BATMC I.27.8 A

Courtesy of the Fashion Museum, Bath & North East Somerset Council BATMC I.09.1050

This is a close up of the shirring decorating the centre front of a 1855 dress that would have been worn during the day. Silk has been used to construct this dress.

Courtesy of the Fashion Museum, Bath & North East Somerset Council BATMC I.09.1164 A

This is a skirt that would have been worn in 1880 to 1885 and is constructed from silk. Fringing can be seen decorating the edges and shirring covers the centre front of the skirt in rows. 

Courtesy of the Fashion Museum, Bath & North East Somerset Council BATMC I.09.1314

This is a bodice from 1871 and was constructed from silk. Fringing has been used as decoration along the neckline. Bows made from silk can be seen on the shoulders as well as netting on the sleeves. Black ribbon can be seen decorating the back and it fastens at the back with buttons.  

Courtesy of the Fashion Museum, Bath & North East Somerset Council BATMC I.09.1314

Visit their website at:

http://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/

Museum of East Asian Art

The Museum of East Asian Art does not have any costumes on display though there is a large range of art from around Asian varying from painting to sculptures. The intricate detailing on some of the objects provides inspiration for future projects and give ideas on shapes, patterns and embellishment that could be applied to costumes.

Museum of East Asian Art- Cheat Sheet

This cheat sheet is thought to be from the late in the 18th century. Scholars would wear robes and on the inside some would have this cheat sheet which is written on silk. This is because in order to become a civil officer in the Qing Dynasty a knowledge exam that only 5% passed needed to be taken, so this silk sheet covered with Chinese messages would sometime be worn.

Museum of East Asian Art- Plate

This plate is from Vietnam and dates around the 1500s. A bird on a branch can be seen in blue as well as curving leaves.

Museum of East Asian Art- Dowry Box

This is a box made in Japan during 1700 to 1750. Scenery can be seen decorating this box.

Museum of East Asian Art- Box

This box was created by Tokkosai Yasuji in the 1800s, Japan. Patterns such as water and daffodils can be seen decorating the box.

Visit their website:

http://www.meaa.org.uk/

Private Lives

On the college trip to Bath we were able to watch Private Lives playing at the Theatre Royal. This is a play about two couples on their honeymoon who run into their ex's. It is set in the 1920/30s and it is a comedy.
The acting was great in this production and I liked the set since I thought it reflected the life style and setting of the characters well. The costumes reflect the era of the production and I was able to identify it easily. I did not enjoy the storyline as much since it just consisted of constant fighting, though I did find some elements amusing.
The inside of the theatre was beautiful with its large chandelier and decorative ceiling that provided some inspiration for rosemaling patterns for the Embellishment project due to the scrolling patterns.
Visit their website at:
http://www.theatreroyal.org.uk/page/3009/Private-Lives/1145

Theatre Royal

Theatre Royal

Haunted Histories of Hartlepool

For the Cut and Construction module I will be making a Victorian/ Edwardian upper class dress that has been designed by a Level 5 Student from Production design. This will be photographed in the Hartlepool street that has been created and designed by the Production Design students. The idea behind this street is that it is the set of a TV programme called the Haunted Histories of Hartlepool which is based around real people who lived in Hartlepool. The character I have been given is Hilda Whitehead-Pattison, the daughter of a Church Vicar's assistant called James Whitehead-Patterson.

Production Design Street

Production Design Street

Production Design Street

Production Design Street

Needles and Threads Guide

In today's Professional Studies lecture we learnt about Needles and Threads.

Sewing Needles

The fabric that is being used effects what needle is used since the needle needs to be suitable for the fabrics properties such as their strength. Large needles should not be used on delicate fabrics since they will leave a hole and damage the fabric.

Sharps are the most common needles and can be used for general use. With needles the bigger there numbers the finer they are. Needles numbered 2, 3 and 4 are usually used on heavy to medium fabrics. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 can be used on light to medium fabrics, 11 and 12 can be used on thin fabrics. 16, 17 and 18 size needles are stronger and heavier and can be used on thick materials such as carpets.

Tapestry needles are also known as cross stitching needles and they are recognised by their large eye. So that the fabric is not damage when sewing the needle is blunt. The larger number needles have small eyes.

Needles used when quilting are short so that it is easier and faster to sew the fabric. The shorter the needle in length the larger the number. These needles range between 1 to 12.

Milliner’s needles are malleable and curve at the bottom so they can be used for stitching decorative features.

Beading needles look like sharps in appearance but they are a lot thinner and longer like wire, though they can be found in different thicknesses and lengths.

Leather needles can used on fabrics such as plastic, leather and suede. These needle cut the fabric instead of pushing through it which can cause the fabric damage. They have a chipped end so that it cuts the fabric.

Darners needle usually have larger eyes which are longer. The needle is also sharper and its common used for repairing garments.

Needles for yarn and wool would be found in the sizes between 14 to 18.

Embroidery needles are used for embroidery so they have eyes which are longer so that the thread can be passed through the needle easily. These needles look like sharps needles.

Curve needles are needles which are curved, they are commonly used on upholstery and are used in order to sew corners with ease.

Bodkin are not needles but they can be used for threading elastic and cording. They are commonly blunt.

Machine Needles

Machine needles are different than hand sewing needles since the bigger the number the bigger the needle whereas sewing needles are the opposite. The sizes found look like 70/10 this is both the sizes in Europe and in America. They are a variety of different machine needles the most common are jersey, universal, denim, ballpoint and sharps. Both the ball point and jersey needle can be used on jersey fabric since it will not damage it. If a needle is too blunt it can lead to the fabric getting stuck in the bobbin case. This can also happen if the needle is too thick. Needles will also break easily if it is not supposed to be used on the fabric. It is thought that after sewing for 8 or 10 hours the needle on a sewing machine will need to be replaced with a new one since if it becomes too blunt it will damage the fabric. The needle also needs to be changed if a pin has been hit since if the needle has been damaged it can damage the fabric. 9/70 is usually used on light weight fabric like silk and taffeta. 11/80 can be used on medium weight fabrics such as satin, linen and cotton. 16/100 can be used on heavy weight fabrics such as curtains.

Thread

When choosing a thread one slightly weaker and lighter than the fabric needs to be used since if too much pressure is applied to the seams the thread with break instead of the fabric. The fabric type can be sewn with the same thread type such as cotton fabric and cotton thread, though all-purpose polyester thread works for most fabrics. It is better to use good quality threads since the lower quality threads are not as smooth. When sewing on fabric with a variety of different colour is usually best to choose a thread in the colour that is seen the most on the pattern. On threads the higher the number is the thinner the thread will be. 60 is commonly used on thin fabrics, 50 on medium weight fabrics and 20 on heavy weight fabrics. Threads are commonly processed so that they are smoother and absorbed water this is called Mercerised Thread.

Polyester thread can be used on a range of fabrics and is usually a 50. The thread is more durable and it can be used on both sewing machines and when hands sewing.  This thread stretches therefore it can be used on stretchy fabrics. This thread is smooth and has a wax like outer layer so that less friction is created when sewing the fabric. The thread also slides and has a shiny surface though it cannot with stand high temperatures.

Cotton thread can be used on quilting and withstands higher temperatures, this thread does not stretch and can break easily. This thread is smooth and works best on fabric which does not stretch.

Threads that can be used for a range of purposes are usually half cotton and half polyester this can be used on a variety of fabrics and can be used on a sewing machine and when sewing by hand. Due to the use of polyester the thread stretches a little bit.

Silk thread is best used on silk, knit, jersey and delicate fabrics as well as for basting, hemming and button holes. Due to the thread being very thin the holes created are smaller. The used of heat can also cause the silk to change its shaping. The stitches are less noticeable and sit deep in the fabric.

Cone thread it the thread that is used for overlocking and it is cheaper and weaker so it snaps easily when used in sewing machines and knots. Polyester and cotton is usually used for thread.  

Invisible threads can be found as see through or cloudy and it is made using either polyester or nylon. Polyester is commonly the best since it is more durable and does not change colour like nylon over time. This thread is useful for binding made from different colours, lacing, applique, trimming and when stitching in the ditch. When sewing with a machine with this thread a net is sometimes placed over the thread since it can unravel easily. Heat cannot be used on this thread.

Metallic threads are polyester and cotton threads which are covered with aluminium. Due to their appearance this thread is commonly used as decorative stitches. The needles used when sewing this have a big eye so that there is less friction and the thread will not break.

Buttonhole thread is thick and can only be used when hands sewing though thread for machines can be found.

Fabrics

Fabrics have different properties and textures that make them suitable for some jobs but unsuitable for others. When creating a garments it is important to buy the correct fabric in order to get the desired effect and outcome. They are a lot of online fabric sites for if the fabric store you visit does not have the correct fabric type of pattern, though it is important to request samples before buying the fabrics so you can see its colour and if it has the right texture, weight and drape. Samples also allow you to see if the fabric is a good quality.

Taffeta

This fabric usually makes a noise and has a stiff texture. It is woven close together with the use of different colours making the fabric change colour under different lights. This fabric is commonly seen on formal clothing as well as on dresses and skirts. This fabric wrinkles easily and usually needs to be sew with either a sharp or ballpoint needle. Polyester or cotton thread can be used on this fabric. Finish the seams with overlocking, pinking or with a zig zag stitch is useful since it prevents fraying.

Satin

This fabric has a very smooth texture and it commonly has a high shine and sheen. A range of fibres can be woven to create this fabric the most common is: rayon, silk, polyester and acetate. This fabric has a good drape but it varies upon the fibres that have been used. It is important to use a small ballpoints or sharp needle when sewing satin because it is very delicate and damages easily. Be careful when using pins that are not sharp on this fabric because it will ruin the fabric creating lines across it. Holes made in it are also visible and the fabric frays a lot. This fabric is sometimes cut on the cross grain in order to make it stiffer. Satin is most commonly used on blouses and dresses. Polyester and cotton can be used on this fabric. Finish the seams with overlocking, pinking or with a zig zag stitch is useful since it prevents fraying.

Suede and Leather- Faux

This fabric resembles leather and suede in texture and it is more affordable. If making a garment for someone they may not want to wear real leather or suede so Faux is a good alternative. This fabric can be found in a wider range of colours then real leather or suede. It is also easier to sew and cut. The fabric can also be bought embossed with patterns. This fabric is not breathable and needs to be ironed on a low temperature, holes made in the fabric are also visible. This fabric is commonly made from polyurethane, polyester and polyvinylchloride and on the wrong side of the fabric cotton and polyester can be seen. This fabric has the same uses as the real version and can be used on items such as skirts, jackets, trousers, bags, shoes and jewellery. Sharp needles and polyester and cotton thread can be used on this fabric. Seam finishes do not need to be used on this fabric since it does not fray though the fabric can still be pinked.

Jacquard

This fabric is commonly patterned which is created when weaving. A range of colours are used when weaving. This fabric is commonly expensive since it is more difficult to make and it can be found in a range of weights. Damask Jacquard creates a pattern with a single colour, floral designs are the most common patterns seen. Brocade Jacquard can be found which can be seen in metallic colours and creates the appearance of embroidered fabric. This fabric is usually heavy weight. Jacquard fabric is delicate and frays a lot. Sharp needles are used and both cotton and polyester can be used as thread. Finish the seams with overlocking, pinking or with a zig zag stitch is useful since it prevents fraying. Flat fell seams can also be used.

Resources

BAUGH, G. (2011) The Fashion Designer's Textile Directory Barron's Educational Series. New York