Fabrics

Fabrics have different properties and textures that make them suitable for some jobs but unsuitable for others. When creating a garments it is important to buy the correct fabric in order to get the desired effect and outcome. They are a lot of online fabric sites for if the fabric store you visit does not have the correct fabric type of pattern, though it is important to request samples before buying the fabrics so you can see its colour and if it has the right texture, weight and drape. Samples also allow you to see if the fabric is a good quality.

Taffeta

This fabric usually makes a noise and has a stiff texture. It is woven close together with the use of different colours making the fabric change colour under different lights. This fabric is commonly seen on formal clothing as well as on dresses and skirts. This fabric wrinkles easily and usually needs to be sew with either a sharp or ballpoint needle. Polyester or cotton thread can be used on this fabric. Finish the seams with overlocking, pinking or with a zig zag stitch is useful since it prevents fraying.

Satin

This fabric has a very smooth texture and it commonly has a high shine and sheen. A range of fibres can be woven to create this fabric the most common is: rayon, silk, polyester and acetate. This fabric has a good drape but it varies upon the fibres that have been used. It is important to use a small ballpoints or sharp needle when sewing satin because it is very delicate and damages easily. Be careful when using pins that are not sharp on this fabric because it will ruin the fabric creating lines across it. Holes made in it are also visible and the fabric frays a lot. This fabric is sometimes cut on the cross grain in order to make it stiffer. Satin is most commonly used on blouses and dresses. Polyester and cotton can be used on this fabric. Finish the seams with overlocking, pinking or with a zig zag stitch is useful since it prevents fraying.

Suede and Leather- Faux

This fabric resembles leather and suede in texture and it is more affordable. If making a garment for someone they may not want to wear real leather or suede so Faux is a good alternative. This fabric can be found in a wider range of colours then real leather or suede. It is also easier to sew and cut. The fabric can also be bought embossed with patterns. This fabric is not breathable and needs to be ironed on a low temperature, holes made in the fabric are also visible. This fabric is commonly made from polyurethane, polyester and polyvinylchloride and on the wrong side of the fabric cotton and polyester can be seen. This fabric has the same uses as the real version and can be used on items such as skirts, jackets, trousers, bags, shoes and jewellery. Sharp needles and polyester and cotton thread can be used on this fabric. Seam finishes do not need to be used on this fabric since it does not fray though the fabric can still be pinked.

Jacquard

This fabric is commonly patterned which is created when weaving. A range of colours are used when weaving. This fabric is commonly expensive since it is more difficult to make and it can be found in a range of weights. Damask Jacquard creates a pattern with a single colour, floral designs are the most common patterns seen. Brocade Jacquard can be found which can be seen in metallic colours and creates the appearance of embroidered fabric. This fabric is usually heavy weight. Jacquard fabric is delicate and frays a lot. Sharp needles are used and both cotton and polyester can be used as thread. Finish the seams with overlocking, pinking or with a zig zag stitch is useful since it prevents fraying. Flat fell seams can also be used.

Resources

BAUGH, G. (2011) The Fashion Designer's Textile Directory Barron's Educational Series. New York

Creatures Encounters

Creatures Encounters are creating a website that will allow parents to access personalised messages from elves and other workers in Santa's Factory for their children. As part of the new module Embellishment, I will be designing and creating a costume for one of the characters. The company will then choose whether they want to use my costume. The costumes are based around Scandinavian, Siberian and Sami clothing, people from the Artic circle. The colour scheme is based around Frozen.
The character I have been given is Laali who is a medicine woman and healer, her costume will have some influences from Siberian Shamans.
Visit their website at:
http://creature-encounter.com/

Darts

They are different darts that are used for different garments, the main ones are known as: the Tuck Dart, Contour Darts and Plain Darts.

-Tuck darts are commonly seen on dresses and resemble more of a rectangle fold instead of the triangle shaped fold seen on normal Plain Darts.

Tuck Dart Front

Tuck Dart Back

-Contour Darts are also known as double darts and are seen on bodices, blouses, tops and dresses.

Contour Dart Front

Contour Dart Back

-Plain Darts are seen on a range of different garments in various places on the bodices.

Plain Dart Front

Plain Dart Back

Chalk and tailor's tacking can be used in order to mark the darts out on the fabric

Tips

When sewing a plain dart start at the top of the dart (widest part)and sew to the bottom but do not back stitch instead tie the ends off with a knot. this is because back stitch can ruin the point on the dart and make it pucker.

On contour darts start in the middle of the dart and sew outwards at each side.

Previous Projects

Close up detail- Madama Butterfly

 
As a part of my previous course at Leeds City College I took part in the Royal Opera Competition. As part of this competition I had to design and make a dress for the opera Madama Butterfly. I was given 4 concepts and I chose futuristic. The design is based on how fashion are constantly reoccurring and coming back into fashion. In order to do this I looked at the Modern Lolita sub-culture clothing and traditional Japanese dress. As well as other peoples ideas on futuristic clothing. Here is my final piece. I also created an installation made from origami flowers and butterflies.

                     

                        Madama Butterfly                                   Madama Butterfly                                    Madama Butterfly Dress
                              Dress                                                   Installation

During this course I also worked on the college's production of Great Expectations; sourcing all the costumes for every character and making the costumes for the characters: Miss Havisham, Young Estella and Adult Estella.

                         

                        Miss Havisham's Dress                        Young Estella Dress                                    Adult Estella Dress

                        Made using Ivory Satin and Lace                 Made using Blue Taffeta             Made from Green taffeta dresses

Corset

Here is a image of my Corset, made using a Victorian corset pattern, that has been handed in for my Introductory Cut and Construction module. I really enjoyed this module since undergarments are an essential part of creating period correct historical garments. It has provided me with the knowledge of the clothing silhouette for women starting from the tutor period allowing me to now identify costumes by there silhouettes. It has also given me a basic knowledge of the costumes throughout 4 centuries. I going to apply the skills I have learn toward making other corsets from different eras. A matching bustle was made as well.

Blue Brocade corset with white coutil and silver bias binding.

Work Experiance

In today's Professional Studies lecture we learnt about Work Experience. Taking part in work experience results in a higher awareness of the career you want to pursue. Even if the work experience is not particularly in the area you want to go into, by taking on a work placement you will be able to explore other areas that you might find interesting. Work experience is a great way to find out what you like and dislike about the industry. It is also a great way to increase  

employment and time keeping skills. As well as this it will develop your awareness of the responsibilities given when working in the industry. Work experience will also developed other skill such as:

-Interview Skills

-Communication Skills

-Job Application Skills

-Team Working Skills

As well as giving you an advantage when applying for jobs. From placements; more experience can be put into your CV's and some may result in a good reference for your CV.

When taking part in work experience it is always important to keep a positive and professional appearance.

Here are some companies that provide work experience:

-Angel Costumiers- Angels also offers internship and apprenticeships.
Visit their website at:

www.angels.uk.com

-Royal Shakespeare Company- This company offers experience that varies in duration. They also offer experience in a specific areas. Though this placement is only offered to students that are in their 2/3 year of a diploma or degree costume or tailoring course. Knowledge of both historical and modern costume techniques is required as well as Footwear, Millenary and dyeing experience. This placement is not paid.
Visit their website at:

www.rsc.org.uk/jobs-and-careers/work-placements

-Northern Stage- this is a producing theatre that offers work experience in different areas.
Visit their website at:

www.northernstage.co.uk/take-part/schools/placements

-Royal Opera House- freelance placement are also offered though they are not any currently available in costume as well as this they also offer other placements.
Visit their website at:

www.roh.org.uk/about/royal-opera-house/work-here/casual-and-freelance-opportunities

-Tussauds Group- other places that have events with themes like Alton towns could also be a good place for work experience.

-Manchester Opera House

-Royal Scottish Opera

You should also visit your local Theatre and Museums. These may offer some valuable work experience.

Developing Historical Costume Making Skills

As part of my professional studies module I need to write a report, for this I have decided to investigate into the opportunities available to develop historical costume making skills, my area of interest.
So far I have found a range of courses:
-Chalemie School of Costume provides a costume course that includes both making and design in the 17th and the 18th century. This is a six day course that take place during the Easter holidays.
Visit their website at:
http://chalemie.co.uk/SSCostume.htm
-School Of Historical Dress provides a range of courses into different aspects of historical costume making including construction of men's and women's clothing, hat making, pattern drafting, fabric and embroidery.
Visit their website at:
http://theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk
-Fabrication Crafts provides classes in between 1st June and the 20th August. They provide 2 to 4 day classes on dress making and structured undergarment making.
Visit their website at:
www.fabric-ation.co.uk/historical.html
-Historical Sewing provides a range of online classes. They teach skills through videos, pdf and photos. They also have a private chat for any questions. The classes are between 4-6 week. They provide classes in bonnet, corset and dress making.
Visit their website at:
http://historicalsewing.com/classes/late-edwardian-corset-class
-Exetersewing provides a two day corset class
Visit their website at:
http://www.exetersewing.co.uk/corseteryclass.html
-The Northern College of Costume provides a costume course- this is a 15 week course that results in a 6 week work placement at a range of theatres and opera houses across the country. Time is dedicated to the creation of a portfolio that can be used for jobs applications. Trips to museums and suppliers are also organised. This course dates between 25th January to 7th May 2016 and 11th July to 22th October 2016.
Visit their website at:
http://www.northerncollegeofcostume.co.uk/
-Morley College provide courses in corset making (full scale) and bustle, crinoline, panier, farthingale (1/2 scale). Dates ranging in between January and July.
Visit their website at:
http://www.morleycollege.ac.uk/courses/833-costume-masterclass-hoops-crinolines-and-bustles/1261
-Arts University Bournemouth this provides summer course in costumes from the early 19th century for 3 weeks. They arrange a trip to London and Bath. This course explores decoration, dresses and accessories.
Visit their website at:
http://aub.ac.uk/courses/summer-courses/costume-summer/